Cusco, Peru – Summer 2023 (Part 2)

This is the 2nd part of my travel journal. (See the first part)

1^st Friday

I arrived on Friday morning and my host welcomed me with coca tea. I had heard about it before coming to Peru. According to Inca tradition, one of the virtues of this drink is to counteract the effect of altitude sickness. Since the Incas lived in mountainous regions, coca tea was also used to prevent or relieve symptoms of altitude sickness, such as headaches and nausea.

Coca tea

It is important to note that although coca tea was revered by the Incas for its supposed virtues, it can also be associated with addiction and health problems when consumed in excess. Today, coca leaf consumption is regulated in many countries due to its stimulant effects and chemical similarity to cocaine.

I helped my host with some shopping in town. I walked a lot, it seems the tea helps me adjust. For dinner, I had a Lomo Saltado (beef stir fry) with homemade fries. Oh my god, wow! I recommend Chira Restobar. A full meal is between S/.10 and S/.23, or between 3.50$CA 7.75$CA.

We went to a public hospital where I also met his brother. A nice guy. I started my adventure with a day like a local. Then we went to the bank (at the counter) so that I could get some local money, Peruvian Sols. Some Peruvian banking institutions add fees to the withdrawal amount but not all. The one I used the most was Banco de la Nacion. With my WhealthSimple card, I didn’t have any surcharge on the conversion and I had access to cash without any problem. (See article on this subject: Purchases while traveling)

Then we went back to the Casa (the house) where I met two other volunteers, one from France and the other from Germany. They had already been in Cusco for five weeks. They gave me tips on the place (groceries, buses, taxis, restaurants, etc.).

1^st Saturday

Plaza Tupac

This Saturday we went, my host and the other volunteers, to the Plaza Tupac market from where I could have a view of the city developing on the mountains.

Luckily I had my foldable backpack (see my travel must-haves), I was able to put my purchases in it.

A little known restaurant

On Mateo Street, our host took us to a little snack bar that looks like nothing from the street. I’m not even sure of the name!

The chocolate making workshop

In the Cusco region, cocoa farming plays an important role in the local economy and in preserving ancestral agricultural traditions. Farmers cultivate cocoa in ideal conditions, benefiting from a tropical climate and fertile soils. Once harvested, the cocoa beans are often processed in artisanal chocolate factories, where they are transformed into high-quality chocolate. These chocolate factories often offer guided tours where visitors can learn about the chocolate-making process, from the harvest of the beans to the final tasting, providing an immersive experience in the culture and history of cocoa in the Cusco region.

I joined the other volunteers to go do a chocolate making workshop at Qoru. Two chocolate bars made by myself! A souvenir for the family when I return (I will have to be careful not to eat them before I return). The steps of the making are as follows:

• Roasting : Cocoa beans are first roasted to develop their characteristic aromas. This step is crucial because it releases the flavors and natural oils present in the beans.
• Hulling: After roasting, the cocoa beans are hulled to remove their outer shell, revealing the cocoa nibs inside.
• Grinding: The cocoa nibs are then ground to form a thick cocoa paste called “cocoa paste” or “cocoa liquor”. This process also releases the natural fat from the beans, known as cocoa butter.
• Conching: The cocoa paste is then conched, that is, mixed and kneaded for several hours, or even several days, at controlled temperatures. This step smooths the texture of the chocolate, improves its flavor and homogenizes its composition. This is the only step that has not been done by us.
• Tempering: The chocolate is then tempered, which involves heating and cooling it in a controlled manner to stabilize its crystalline structure. This gives the chocolate a characteristic shine, a crisp texture, and prevents the formation of white spots or bloom.
• Molding and Hardening: Finally, the tempered chocolate is poured into molds and allowed to harden at room temperature or in a refrigerator. Once hardened, the chocolate is removed from the molds and is ready to be enjoyed.

We even made cocoa drinks using ancient Inca and Spanish methods. The Incas added spices such as chili pepper. The Spanish added sugar (e.g. honey) to sweeten the drink.

“Don’t wear a white sweater to a chocolate workshop!”

Note to self

A show about the history of Peru

The show at the Municipal Theater of Cusco was very interesting because it related the 3 regions of Peru (the coast, the mountains and the jungle) over time. From ancestral practices through colonization by the Spanish to today.

The Peruvian costumes are rich in colors, the dance performances are incredible. An extraordinary show that made me discover the history of the region.

1^st Sunday

This day was quieter. I had to go shopping. I need snacks and bottled water. The tap water is not drinkable. I start my volunteering the next day.

Another volunteer joins the household. An American this time. She is doing a different program. She will be alternating between volunteering and tourism.

I “climbed” the steps of the city and the view was magnificent!

In the evening, we went to see the Barbie movie… in Spanish! I didn’t understand anything except the songs that weren’t translated into Spanish. Interesting experience but I’ll have to watch the movie again later.

1st Monday – Start of volunteering

I go to “la ocifina” for my introduction to volunteering and steps to take in the area.

Relatively simple measures:

• Do not drink tap water
• Do not eat mayonnaise (raw eggs)
• Don’t eat street food. I was less happy about this one because it’s a good way to discover local tastes.
• Do not eat the peel of fruits or vegetables. They must always be peeled.
• Not much crime in Cusco, no more than in other tourist cities.

I took the opportunity to find out about tourist visits to do between my volunteer periods. I quickly understood that two weeks was not enough. I will have to come back!

Educational daycare – Kusi Uyacha guarderia

I am assigned to an educational daycare in the craft center of Cusco. At first, I will help the 1-3 year olds. (I will learn at the same time as them ) and then, the older ones of 4-5 years to prepare them to start their entry into primary school. They are mainly the children of parents working at the Mercado de Wanchaq. These are half-days of volunteering, so I have my afternoons free to visit the city.

The kids are adorable! And the teachers are so grateful for the help we give them. It’s crazy how welcoming they are. No judgment, volunteers are simply accepted immediately.

City walk

Cusco is a quiet city that lives mainly from tourism. Walking around is relaxing. I just didn’t quite understand why, in the center of Cusco, we are offered massages on every street corner.

I joined the other volunteers for gelato and more walking tours since everything is mostly done on foot.

1^st Tuesday

After volunteering, I went to have a bite to eat at the center. An alpaca burger at Cafe Macchiato. They have a dining room on the 2nd floor that overlooks the street. Eating with a view? Why not!

Afternoon in the center of Cusco

In the center, everything is touristy. So necessarily more expensive. To save money for the same items and services, nothing better than moving away from the center. (This tip is valid in all cities in the world) There are women with traditional clothes who approach you so that you take pictures with their baby alpacas. They are beautiful and the alpacas too but you have to negotiate the price BEFORE.

Dinner at Saywa

For a change from Lomo Saltado, I opted for a Pollo Saltado (sautéed chicken). Still as good! I’m discovering new flavors.

1^st Wednesday – Arrival at the hospital

Excruciating pain during the night. I can’t even speak because it hurts so much in my lower abdomen. My host calls a doctor who takes me to the hospital (Clinica MacSalud). Yes, I went to Peru to get away from it all, I’m going to be served!

After some tests at the hospital, finally a diagnosis. Salmonella!

I was treated well at the hospital. It is private. The doctor speaks English, the nurses only Spanish.

The view of the mountains is superb. Lucky! I’m going to spend 2 days there.

On Monday, at the Oficina, I was warned to be very careful about what I eat and drink because if I contract salmonella, I will probably need 7 to 10 days to recover.

The strangest thing is that I didn’t eat anything different from the others and I’m the only one who’s sick. The difference? I took antacids the day before and that’s probably why. I’ve learned my lesson, I don’t take antacids with me on trips anymore.

Another thing to know: Always have emergency numbers and know what to do. I was lucky to live with someone from Cusco who was able to take the necessary initiatives for me.

1^st Thursday – Hospital discharge

I had to wait all day, even though I was feeling much better, to get my latest test results and my discharge from the hospital. I finally got it late in the evening.

Despite the wait, the view was beautiful from the room.

I was given probiotics, antibiotics and apart from these tablets only one recommendation: do not go up any higher because it seems that my oxygen level is a little low.

Too bad I had shipments planned and I will have to cancel the one on Friday.

I’m lucky though, it seems I won’t be too bothered by my experience.

Continued in part three