After traveling with the kids over the summer, we decided to take another trip, just the two of us. Cuba for the second time this year! We stayed at the Sol Rio de Luna y Mares Resort. It wasn’t my first time visiting Cuba in September, so I checked for potential hurricanes before we left. Luckily, there were none in the area this year. Late summer/early fall is a great time to visit Cuba on a budget.
REM (Réseau express métropolitain)
Just like our last trip do Cuba, we took the REM (Réseau express métropolitain) to get there. It’s always a pleasure—no worries about traffic, parking, or airport congestion. I can’t wait for the REM to go directly to the airport!
Airport and lounge
Just like our last trip, we relaxed, ate, and had a drink in the Banque Nationale lounge before departure. They even had Nanaimo bars this time! I won’t repeat myself too much, so I’ll keep it short. Nothing has changed in the past few months—still very pleasant.
Flights
Once again, we flew with Sunwing! Boarding was done by row, which was quite efficient considering most passengers didn’t have carry-on luggage and traveled only with checked baggage. The most efficient boarding I’ve experienced was with Air Canada on my trip to Paris. They boarded by seat position. For example, on a six-seat aircraft (three seats on each side of the aisle), it went like this:
- Window seats (A & F)
- Middle seats (B & E)
- Aisle seats (C & D)
This way, there’s no need to ask another passenger to get up so you can reach your window seat.
We arrived late in the evening at Holguin Frank Pais Airport, landing around 10 PM. Then, it was a quick hop onto the bus for a one-hour ride to the hotel.
Meliá Sol Río de Luna y Mares
The Meliá Sol Río de Luna y Mares is a 4-star resort (3½ stars according to Transat). Check-in was quick, although we had to change rooms because we had two single beds pushed together instead of a double or king bed. One of us would have spent the nights in the gap! Once we changed rooms, everything was perfect.
The Luna section is currently under renovation.
The room was spacious, with a large balcony and a small clothesline (handy for drying swimsuits), a TV (which I didn’t use), and a large bottle of water per day per room. The shower was a good size. We were on the 3rd floor with no one above us in our block. The rooms don’t have the white furniture shown in the photos, which gives them a slightly dated feel, but they are still respectable and comfortable. And the WiFi? It’s everywhere! Even on the beach!
I contacted the hotel directly a week before our stay because we had a birthday to celebrate and I wanted to arrange something special. The hotel management responded quickly with instructions. Communication with the hotel was easy, even in advance via email.
Remember to bring your electronic devices because the hotel’s voltage is 220V. No problem for phone or laptop chargers, but for other devices, check to avoid damage. (See My Travel Must-Haves)
Since it was the low season, we never had any trouble finding chairs, whether at the pool or the beach. At least we didn’t have to wake up at the crack of dawn to secure chairs!
Food & Drinks
Unlike my experience in February (high season), we didn’t have to wait in line anywhere to eat. The schedules were well adapted, and there was always something available. While Cuba’s supply situation might seem concerning, unless you’re VERY picky, you’ll eat well.
Restaurants & Bars
Our Sunwing representative told us we could book two dinners at the à la carte restaurant during our stay. We did this as quickly as possible. There was only one restaurant open each night, always in the same location, but the cuisine changed. The fact that part of the resort is under renovation played a role in this.
The types of cuisine we enjoyed included:
- International
- Cuban
- Italian
- Special dinner for returning guests
These à la carte menus were available at “La Pinta,” the beach restaurant!
A tip: Don’t consider yourself royalty just because you’ve booked an all-inclusive. Take the time to talk to the staff, use Spanish as much as you can, and treat people the way you want to be treated. We reap what we sow. I spoke with so many employees—servers, bartenders, beach staff, and even maintenance workers. They are always happy when you show interest in them. The situation in Cuba is tough for everyone, but a smile is always welcome.
By following these tips, we were invited by the staff to the à la carte restaurant every night. I have no idea what the buffet menu was in the evening!
La Pinta
This is the à la carte restaurant. Located on the beach, it offers a breathtaking view. It’s an experience in itself. It’s a bit far, with many steps to get there, but there’s also a ramp if you prefer not to take the stairs.
You can eat there for lunch (no reservation needed) and dinner (reservation required).
With “La Niña,” “Santa Maria,” and “Le Bistro” closed, most of the à la carte dinners were at “La Pinta.”
La Carabela
This is the snack bar that was open 24 hours during my stay. On Cuban dinner night, it was also the reservation spot.
Colón
This is the buffet. Open three times a day, it offers a variety of hot and cold international dishes.
1492 Lobby Bar
Always open, it’s located in the central lobby. It’s also the place for evening shows. There’s also a café with excellent service.
La Niña
A small kiosk for your cocktails right on the beach.
La Nao
This is the pool bar, the perfect place to spend the whole day. Always refreshing.
Theater Bar
Situé en bordure du théâtre (qui a aussi fait office de discothèque. Il est ouvert en soirée lorsque le théâtre est utilisé.
Closed restaurants/bars (under renovation during my stay)
- La Niña (only drink service on the beach was available)
- Santa Maria
- Le Bistro
- Snack Bar (Luna)
- Azucar Bar
- La Notte jazz bar
- El Dorado lobby bar (Luna)
On-site activities
There are many activities offered, both for adults and children (they have their own program).
Whether it’s sports or fitness activities, Spanish or dance classes, there’s plenty to do. Not to mention the free water activities like pedal boats, sea kayaks, windsurfing, or catamaran rides available every day on the beach. For water activities, I suggest the morning, as the wind picks up in the afternoon, making these activities more physically demanding.
There’s also a gym and a wellness center where you can get massages ($).
The beach
Of all my travels, I must admit that the beaches in Cuba are the most beautiful I’ve seen, and Playa Esmeralda is one of them.
Beautiful, calm, not too crowded (during our stay). In short, perfect.
Snorkeling
My wife chose this hotel, and all I confirmed was that snorkeling was possible directly from the beach.
- Right in front of “La Pinta,” the beach has coral in this area. Magnificent without going far.
- Along the coast of the preservation park. There are many waves pushing you against the coral walls, quite challenging.
- Opposite the small white gazebo. This spot was indicated to me as the best. It’s only accessible by pedal boat or kayak. I didn’t try it.
It’s not worth going far from the shore. There are only short seaweed (seagrass) at the bottom, not corals.
Excursions
A few excursions were available during my stay. Check the in-flight brochure and with your on-site travel representative. I took a trip to Santiago de Cuba.
Tip: Pre-booked excursions, even those offered on the plane, are cheaper than booking on-site. Additional discounts + paying in CAD. For example, it cost me $101.32 CAD on the plane instead of $89 USD ($123.84 CAD) on-site.
We left early in the morning (7 AM) because, with the road conditions, it took 3 hours by bus after picking up passengers from other hotels. Luckily, “La Carabela” was open, so I could have breakfast since the buffet wasn’t open yet.
Santiago de Cuba, located on the southeastern coast of the island, is a city rich in history and culture. It stands out for its vibrant atmosphere, lively streets, and well-preserved colonial architecture. The birthplace of son music and the Cuban revolution, Santiago is surrounded by mountains and spectacular landscapes, offering a unique blend of nature and heritage. Festivities like the carnival add to its charm, while iconic sites such as Castillo del Morro and Santiago Cathedral testify to its glorious past. This city, where African, Spanish, and Caribbean influences mix, is a true symbol of Cuban identity.
From the hotel, there are other options like visiting Guardalavaca, which is 5 km away, or Holguin, 60 km away.
Currency and Tips
In my recent trips, I ran out of cash for tips. This trip was no exception. I didn’t bring “gifts” this time but money. Canadian dollars, in good condition, which I quickly exchanged for local currency. Cubans can’t deposit foreign coins, and this is also true for $1 and $2 coins. However, by bringing bills ($5, $10, $20, $50, etc.), you can exchange them with locals, allowing them to deposit the money and us to get coins for tips.
There was an ATM on-site, but it’s not recommended to withdraw money as such. You’ll get Cuban pesos, which is not advantageous at all.
Government-run shops only accept card payments. I got caught during my excursion to Santiago de Cuba, as I only had cash on me.